Let me tell you one of the best wine stories in the world. For hundreds of years, right up until WWII, Hungary had produced some of the finest wines in Europe. The Great War took its toll though; and half a decade of communist rule didn't do it any favors. While communist governments aren't really good at producing things in general, they were really bad at producing fine products.
Vineyard owners were dispossessed. Brands were nationalized. Winemaking was centralized and generations of expertise were squandered. A light had gone out. It stayed pretty dark in that part of the world for half a century. While wine was made and the names were kept alive by the state-owned companies, it was mostly plonk. A light had most certainly gone out.
Before that time, there were many great wines produced in Hungary, all imbued with history and lore. You may have heard of the Bulls Blood wines of Eger (Egri Bikavér), supposedly used to fortify the soldiers who defended Eger from the Turkish Siege under Suleiman the Magnificent circa 1552.
You may not have heard that wines from the region of Somló, once rivaled those of Eger and were favored by the Hapsburgs. Somlói wines were purported to increase intelligence and also to make the conception of a male child more likely. For this reason they were also known as wedding night wines (a nászéjszakák bora).
The most famous region of all was Tokaji. While there were and are great table wines from Tokaji, it is most famous for its dessert wine: Tokaji Aszú. The Aszú were considered among the best in the world, rivaling Bordeaux's Chateau d'Yquem. Aszú is back on the world market, and for the last quarter century, it is rising once again to take it's rightful place in cellars across the globe.
The rarest of all Tokaji wines is the Essencia (also Eszencia). Where Aszú is made from a mix of regular grapes and grapes that have shriveled to raisins with Noble Rot; Essencia is made only from the free-run juice of completely raisinated grapes. 90% of the water is gone from these grapes. The golden nectar goes to the cellar in glass demijohns. Wooden barrels can't hold a wine this concentrated. Over seven years, the slowest fermentation in the world creates just 2-3% alcohol in a wine that is immediately drinkable and will last for HUNDREDS of years. Quite literally, I have never heard of an Essencia that has aged out. They have been reliably tasted at 200 years old.
Robert Parker rated the 2000 Essencia by The Royal Tokaji Company at 100 points and wrote, "Drink between now and the year 3000." Hyperbole yes, but we get his point.
We're going to open a bottle of the 2003 from Royal Tokaji on Thursday, November 19.
Here's what Wine Advocate had to say about this particular wine:
"The 2003 Essencia has a fabulous bouquet with profound scents of lemon curd, frangipane, apple crumble, dandelion, wild mushroom and a slight adhesive note. The palate is extraordinarily pure with perfect acidity. It is perfectly focused with a crescendo of honey, quince, and Seville orange marmalade with lemon peel... [“Royal Tokaji” are some of the finest Escenzias] Tokaji has to offer...and are destined to outlive all of us." Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com #210
Essencia is so incredibly concentrated that you don't drink it like other wine. In fact, you don't quite drink it. It is so concentrated, it would make your head explode. The traditional way to enjoy this most rare beverage is in half-ounce portions in glass or crystal spoons.
This is a half-bottle that retails for $750. We will pour 1/2 ounce portions (that's a normal serving by the way) for $25.
On Thursday, November 19, at 6:30, in the spirit of The Spirits Project, we're going to offer 1/2 ounce portions in traditional glass spoons, beginning at 6:30. Unlike in other Spirits Project openings, you may reserve a spot with pre-payment or just show up for first-come-first-served. If you reserve and cannot make it on the 19th, the bottle will be available to come and have your spoonful of magic for one week. Tokaji does not decline after being opened.
We are going to open just one bottle. I hope you can join us. If you would like to reserve a portion, email [email protected] or call 732-828-4444.