The Restaurant Guys

The Spirits Project: Castarede Armagnac 1959

Making the experience of super-luxury spirits crazily affordable and accessible!
Read more about the Spirits project.

• Suggested retail price: $729
  
• Wednesday, November 26 through Friday, November 27 (as long as it lasts), we're pouring a one-ounce pour for $22
  

The Castarède family began making brandy in Armagnac more than 175 years ago. Their deep roots in the region result in the ability to select the best possible Bas Armagnac products then distill to perfection and mature the resulting brandy. Armagnac is still a region where small estates grow grapes and various others distill these grapes into the signature brandy of the region. It's a place where history and family ties often matter as much as the hard work in the vineyard and at the still.

Castarede possesses two cellars, each more than one hundred years old. One is located on the banks of the Baïse River at Pont de Bordes, the historical center of wine trading when waterway was the primary means of transport. It is exceptional for aging Armagnac, as the proximity of river creates unique isothermic conditions. This is the cellar of choice for the oldest vintages. The other cellar, in Mauléon d'Armagnac, is situated in the Grand Bas Armagnac region. We've drunk many vintages from Castarede and have been uniformly impressed. The 1959 is 6 years older than Mark and I, and rumor has it, it's aged better than we have. Let's find out this week.

The Month Of December Will Be Cognac Month in The Spirits Project
We've got some fabulous stuff lined up.

Next Week in The Spirits Project
Leopold Gourmel Cognac Age de Epices 20 Year
(Thursday December 4)

Frying Your Turkey? Read This First!

Please, please be very careful if you plan to fry a turkey this year. It's one of the most dangerous things you can do.

• Stay well away (many yards) from the house or anything that can catch fire (Decks, Trees, Sheds),
• Don't overfill the pot,
• Make sure the turkey is COMPLETELY THAWED and
• Have a fire extinguisher with you rated for grease fires (water from the hose makes a grease fire worse).

This is no joke folks.

Stay safe. Happy Thanksgiving.

Peconic Bay Scallops Thirty Years Later

This week’s post comes not from Francis but from me, Mark Pascal-- so it will contain no phrases like “hard by the river Styx” or quotes from The Old Man and The Sea. Just a straight-up story.

When I was very young, my Aunt (a daughter of Catherine Lombardi) bought a house on the Peconic Bay. After that, a great deal of my family’s beach time moved from the Jersey Shore to Long Island. Many weekends, and a few weeks a year, were spent at their home.

In the 1970s, the Bay was plentiful with shellfish just yards from their home. Mussels were always easy. They‘re not so bright, you see. They just sit on top of the sand in large bunches in the seaweed. You could catch your fill in minutes. Clams take a lot more work. They’re under the sand and you need to dig for them. It’s difficult when you’re a novice, to tell a clam from a rock and there are lots of rocks in the Peconic. With a little luck we would find some scallops, conch (scungilli) and some razor clams too.

My Grandmother Catherine, Auntie Mame, Uncle Joe, Cumpa, my brother, and I, would spend the afternoon all digging together, each with their own style. Grandma didn’t use a rake, she just dug in the sand with her big-toe until she hit something hard and then yelled for a grandchild to follow her leg down into the water and grab whatever was at the end her big-toe. More often than not it was a clam! Cumpa and I were definitely rake guys. He was a WWII vet, then longshoreman in Brooklyn and there was no quit in him. We were always the last two to come in, only quitting when the incoming tide brought the bay to our shoulders.

As we brought them in, Grandma (having long since given up on the toe-digging) and Cumma would scrub the outsides while Auntie Mame would cut fresh herbs from the garden. Then it was time to divvy up the bounty: the clams, in their pot with white wine garlic, olive oil and some of those fresh picked herbs; the mussels in their own pot with fresh marinara. The scallops would be cleaned and just barely warmed in white wine and garlic. They would finish cooking later in the linguine after being reunited with the clams. Finding the scallop in the linguine and clams was like finding buried treasure. Delicate and sweet, they added texture and creaminess to an already spectacular dish.

By the 1990s, the clams, mussels, and scallops were gone. We could still swim and play at the beach but it wasn’t the same as digging for nature’s bounty. There was something really special about coming home with blisters on your hands, an aching back and a couple of bushels of goodies.

Good things have been happening in Peconic Bay. Five years ago my Aunt told me that the clams were back. So I brought my kids out to teach them our family traditions. This year, along with a few dozen clams, we brought in a conch and my first scallop in 30 years!

There's one!

It turns out Peconic Bay Scallops are plentiful again. We get them overnight from Montauk and they’re delicious. I’ve asked chef to use them in both restaurants. In Stage Left they are being served En Ceviche alongside a seared giant Sea Scallop. In Catherine Lombardi we are serving them just the way she served them when I was a kid, with garlic, clams good olive oil and herbs over linguine. Simple sweet and delicious.

Of course Catherine Lombardi didn’t have access to White Truffles then but we do now! They're pretty great shaved over this dish. I'm sure Catherine Lombardi would approve.

-- Mark Pascal

The Spirits Project: Angel's Envy Cask Strength Bourbon

Making the experience of super-luxury spirits crazily affordable and accessible!
Read more about the Spirits project.

• Suggested retail price: $199
  
• This Thursday at 6:30 p.m., we're pouring a one-ounce pour for $7
  

The June 2013 edition of The Spirit Journal named last year's release of Angel's Envy cask strength a tie for “best spirit in the world.” The 25-year-old single malt whisky which shared that billing was much more expensive. In his review, Paul Pacult awarded the brand five stars – his highest recommendation – noting, “this masterpiece deserves a sixth star rating.” I trust Paul's palate implicitly. The cask strength is derived from a limited selection of top barrels at about seven years old, that are then transferred to port casks for marrying and final aging. The spirit is then bottled un-rectified. You often encounter Scotch finished in wine barrels of various types, but it's not so common in bourbons.

We will open one bottle on Thursday at precisely 6:30. When it's gone, it's gone.

Next Week in The Spirits Project:
(Wednesday and Friday, as Thursday is Thanksgiving):
Castarede Armagnac 1959

The Walk Around Wine Tasting

We're hosting another one of our famous (yet pleasantly informal) walk-around wine tastings from 4:30 - 7 PM on Saturday, November 29.

We've got our hands on a number of new wines since our last tasting and we're eager to share them with you. They might just be perfect for your cellar or your holiday table.

The cost is $25 and we'll have 25 wines to sample. The $25 will be credited toward the purchase of your first case of wine.

So let's give thanks, have a great time and be just a little mindful of others who are struggling to make it in very difficult circumstances.

Bubbles from Champagne
Jacquart 'Brut Mosaique' NV Champagne

California Reds, Including the New Vintage of White Rock Claret!
Zinfandel 2012; Fritz; Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Cabernet Sauvignon 2011; Ladera; Napa, California
Cabernet Sauvignon 2009; Wing Canyon Vineyard; Mount Veeder, Napa, California
Claret 'Cab Sauv - Franc - Merlot...' 2010; White Rock; Napa, California

Two Super Tuscans and Brunello
Stielle 'Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon' 2009; Rocca di Castagnoli; Tuscany
Lorenzo & Isabelle 'Cab Franc - Sangiovese - Petit Verdot' 2005; Il Palazzone; Montalcino, Tuscany
Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino 2009; Tuscany

Wines from Piedmont
Nervi Gattinara 2006
Barolo 'Prapo' 2010; Schiavenza; Piedmont

Current and Back Vintages from Germany and Austria
Riesling Kabinett 'Estate' 2007; Schloss Schonborn; Rheingau, Germany
Schmid Riesling Priorissa Sunlogen 2005; Kremstal, Austria
Schmid Gruner Veltliner Gebling Reserve 2005; Kremstal, Austria
Schmid Gruner Veltliner Satzen 2013; Kremstal, Austria

A Lovely California Chardonnay
Chardonnay 2012; Fritz; Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California

One of The Most Decadent and Unusual Viognier from France
Viognier ''Super Rhone'' 2012; Chene Bleu; Rhone

Pinot Noir from France and The USA
Including Jayer-Gilles Burgundy for the First Time in A Decade
Pinot Noir 'Les Brulis' 2012; Domaine de Mauperthuis; Burgundy
Jayer Gilles Cote De Nuits Villages 2010; Burgundy
Pinot Noir 'Beresini Vineyard' 2012; Stomping Girl; Carneros, California

Rhone Wines and Rhone Varieties from The USA
Crozes-Hermitage 'Beaumont' 2012; David Reynaud; Rhone
Ruben 'Mourvedre, Syrah' 2010; The Withers; Sierra Foothills, California

Two Rocking Country Wines from Puglia
Negroamaro 'Roccamora' 2012; Schola Sarmenti; Nardo, Puglia
Primitivo 'Critera' 2012; Schola Sarmenti; Puglia

Got to Have An Argentine Malbec
Malbec 'Las Divas Vineyard' 2012; Riglos; Valle de Uco, Mendoza Valley, Argentina

California Reds, Including the New Vintage of White Rock Claret!
Zinfandel 2012; Fritz; Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Cabernet Sauvignon 2011; Ladera; Napa, California
Cabernet Sauvignon 2009; Wing Canyon Vineyard; Mount Veeder, Napa, California
Claret 'Cab Sauv - Franc - Merlot...' 2010; White Rock; Napa, California

Refresh the Palate with A Crisp White and Finish Up Sweet
Pinot Gris 'Crawford Beck Vineyard' 2012; Owen Roe; Oregon
Sauternes 2007; Prieure d' Arche; Bordeaux

For $25, it's a Wine Adventure!

Let us know if you're coming: [email protected] or 732-828-4444.

The Shibumi Farm Mushroom Tasting Menu

A few years ago, Alan Kaufman walked into Stage Left and offered to sell us mushrooms. We're always interested in new purveyors and Alan had an interesting story. He had worked for 25 years managing investments, but lost his passion for the money business. He established Shibumi Farm, and had begun growing high quality mushrooms full-time. Any skepticism we had was soon displaced with excitement at the extraordinary selection of product he brought us to sample. We thought to ourselves, "This is a fungi."

Seriously, they were some of the best and most interesting mushrooms we have ever tasted. For the last year or so we've continued to be blown away by the quality, variety and excitement of the mushrooms. If you've had the Lion's Mane Mushroom done in a Faux Foie Gras presentation you know what I'm talking about.

To top it all off, Alan came to his love of mushrooms through a charitable endeavor called "Mushrooms with A Mission." This amazing organization helps impoverished people (landmine victims in Vietnam in particular) to learn to farm this high value crop that requires little in the way of land or capital. Does this guy get any better?

The Menu

Killer Consommé

Lion’s Mane Mushroom
Faux Fois Gras Preparation

A Composed Salad
Trumpet Royal * Smoked Grey Oyster * Grilled Maitake * Herbed Lemon Oyster
(Purple Potato Chips, Beets, Goat Cheese)

Stuffed Veal
Articulated Selection of Shibumi Mushrooms
Cipollini Onion

House-Made Chocolate Truffles

$79

Reservations: [email protected] or 732-828-4444
Please let us know if you would like to come to the wine tasting as well.

Mushrooms are a natural product, somewhat unpredictable and some of these are highly perishable. The exact selection of mushrooms may change.

The Frank Schott Senior Memorial Blood Drive - Sunday, November 23

So it's eight years since my Dear Old Da passed away. He was a great man who touched a lot of people and he was my personal hero.

I remember the day I told the family I was not going for an advanced degree but that Mark and I were going to open a restaurant. After an extended period of silence and a few days of explaining, my father came around to being Stage Left's biggest fan and strongest supporter.

He fought it bravely and well for almost two years, but the Leukemia got him in the end. During that time, due to the generosity of others, there was an ample blood supply that he often accessed. My sisters and I figured the best way to honor his memory would be to run an annual blood drive in his honor. Blood supplies run quite short around the holiday time, so it's always the Sunday before Thanksgiving.

The drive is held from 9 AM to 2 PM at The Friendly Sons of The Shillelagh Social Club in West Orange. I cook a free Irish Breakfast for every donor and it's become the largest Blood Drive in North Jersey. Now don't expect the Taj Mahal or Ashford Castle, but we will be playing Irish music on the Jukebox downstairs while you wait, and the bar opens at noon. Be careful not to drink too much when you're a pint down. It's been said that it's possible to eat well in Ireland, so long as you're willing to have breakfast morning, noon and night. Come let me make you and Irish Breakfast at our little club on Sunday, November 23.

If you would like to make an appointment to donate, email [email protected].

Truffles for Your Home

Great white truffles are just meant to be shaved paper thin on top of a dish at the last minute. Typically, we choose somewhat neutral or lighter or flavored dishes as the base for truffles. Pasta, Risotto, Veal, Chicken all make a great base. But do you know what food just screams out for truffle?

Yes, that's correct: Turkey.

After you slice the meat and plate it, walk around the table and sprinkle a little truffle love all around. You will make the whole house smell delicious. Don't forget to shave some on top of the gravy boat.

We are offering truffles for sale, now through November 26th. You must pre-order so ensure we have enough in-house. Truffles are $175 per ounce and sold as whole truffles so we will get as close as we can to your requested weight.

Truffles are perishable and should be used within 10 days of taking delivery. The sooner the better. 

Truffles in the Restaurant

Truffles are in. Wonderful and aromatic white truffles from Alba are in the midst of their annual appearance and it's a particularly good season so far.

We're offering some lovely pasta dishes in Catherine Lombardi with White Alba Truffles for $49. They can also be shaved atop any dish for $35 per 5 gram portion. They do make a Veal Chop sing!

In Stage Left, we're offering them atop a dish of Antebellum Grits and Local Egg for $45 or atop just about any other dish for $35. The most decadent among you have taken to ordering Truffle Burgers. We wholeheartedly support this trend.

Seriously, we would just shave them right into your mouth if you like, but a little decorum is required. They're heady and pungent and wonderful.

The Spirits Project: Ladyburn 41 Year

Making the experience of super-luxury spirits crazily affordable and accessible!
Read more about the Spirits project.

• Suggested retail price: $2,200
  
• This Thursday at 6:30 p.m., we're pouring a one-ounce pour for $69
  

We continue in our journey to bring you the very best of the Balvenie-related marks. Last week's Spirits Project bottle (The Balvenie 25) was empty before 8 O'clock. To reiterate: I do believe The Balvenie is unique among Scottish distilleries.

Think of this as a lead up towards the Balevenie 50, which we're going to open in January. I hope you will consider the 50 for yourself, as a present to another, or as a suggestion you might make to a real aficionado. If you sign on to the Balvenie 50 this week, we will invite you do lunch with Master Distiller David Stewart and us this coming Tuesday.

Ladyburn, like The Balvenie, is owned by William Grant...or rather, it was. You see, Ladyburn Distillery has been shuttered since 1975, making this a ghost whisky. In the early 60's William Grant established a small distilling complex in Girvan, Ayrshire. The purpose of this Lowlands distillery was to produce spirit for Grant's various blends as the juice of The Glenfiddich Distillery was newly being dedicated to this crazy new "single malt" project. Two higher quality stills were added in 1966 and it is their issue that is Ladyburn. While much of the whisky from these stills ennobled the blends of William Grant through the 60s and 70s, some extraordinary barrels were kept separate for release as a single-malt. A very few extremely exceptional barrels were kept for 41 Years. As the distillery was in operation for less than a decade, this is one of the rarer bottlings you will find. Four hundred bottles of Ladyburn 41 came to the U.S. One of them will meet its fate Thursday at 6:30. Will you be there?

And because I couldn't resist. Here's how I'm hoping it makes me feel.

We will open one bottle of Ladyburn 41 on Thursday at precisely 6:30. When it's gone, it's gone.

Next Week in The Spirits Project:
Angel's Envy Cask Strength Bourbon