Good friends of ours are involved in a most worthwhile charity that aids the families of wounded veterans. The Family and Friends for Freedom Fund offers assistance to the families of wounded veterans. They're having a benefit concert at The George Street Playouse on the evening of Saturday, August 10th. Gene Ferrari will be singing his heart out and it will all be for a great cause. You can learn more about Gene and even check out his music here. You can pick up tickets for the concert here for just $20. Have dinner with us that evening in either restaurant, show us your tickets and we'll donate 20% of the food portion of your bill to the FFFF!
This Sunday August 2nd, we're going to give the pigs a bit of a break. Instead we are going to celebrate our favorite marine arthropod. The fine folks from Schiopetto are going to help us out. At Stage Left, we will offer 1.25 lb Lobsters, partially in the shell with Dryer Farm corn for $25. TWO for $39! (actual baby not included) We'll also have Lobster Rolls and Lobster Lasagna, Lobster Mac and Cheese and a whole host of sides, like Corn and Truffle Ravioli. Our regular menu is also available. The hours are from 4 PM till 9 PM.
Some fine wine folks are acting as our sponsor this week. Mario Schiopetto is a pioneer in the northeastern Italian region of Friuli. He founded this legendary estate in 1965, the same year my parents founded...me. Schiopetto produces crisp white wines that set the bar for high-quality white wine production in Italy and helped to put Friuli on the map. Sunday we will offer two wines from Schiopetto: a blend called Blanc di Rosis and a Pinot Grigio. "Pinot Grigio you say, your mouth agape?" "Yessss, Pinot Grigio as it is intended to be!" say I. Did you know that Pinot Grigio in the vineyard has a slight pink hue to it, almost tending toward rosé? Well you know it now. It can also be dense and rich and mineral, and delicious. Since we'll have no pig to toast, we will toast each of you individually upon your arrival. The Pinot Grigio and the Blanc de Rosis will also be available for the discounted price of $15 per quartino (hey, quality ain't cheap).
We look forward to seeing you Sunday. Babies in lobster costumes eat free...just the babies!
One of the lightest, brightest, cleanest summer cocktails I've come across in years, I discovered at The Cocktail Bar at The Connaught Hotel in London. Agostino Perrone is behind the stick at that venerable establishment, and with his permission, I will recreate on Friday a concoction of gin, limoncello, vanilla and lemon that, should you indulge, will forever inhabit your memory of August 2013. Friday evening at The Cocktail Bar at Catherine Lombardi, we will offer The Tricolore for $9. Hors d'Oeuvres will be passed until 9 PM Friday. The most tasteful cocktail enthusiasts of The Garden State will be in attendance, as is their custom. We hope you will join us!
There is a lot in my life that I take for granted. The word "Liberty" gets thrown around a lot these days. Sometimes, in our modern political discourse, the word is thrown around so much that it's trivialized or used as an excuse for selfishness. Society is always engaged in a debate about where personal liberties meet communal responsibilities. The obvious metaphorical answer is that my liberty to swing my fist ends at the point where it contacts your nose; but how to apply that metaphor in a given situation often leads to debate.
In the context of large issues of freedom and liberty, the right to wine may seem trivial. The right to have a glass of wine; the right to make a bottle of wine; the right to sell a bottle of wine and the right to teach people about one's vinous heritage are not as important as the rights to a freedom of religion, freedom of speech, the right to vote for one's leaders or a right to a trial by jury. We all see life through our own particular lenses and mine are rather rosé colored; so from my perspective, the thought of the state making it illegal to simply have a glass of wine is a very mundane, but a very real manifestation of oppression. The thought of a group of people out to destroy a wine tradition that goes back millennia makes me sick. Sadly, that's what's going on in Turkey right now.
You may not know much about Turkish wine, but that doesn't mean it's not great. While quality is beside the point of this discussion, the fact that Turkey is making great wine, and that its wines have been on a very steep trajectory of improvement makes this whole business all the more tragic.
Seven thousand years ago wine was already an important part of the culture of Anatolia, what is now Turkey. It is said that the Greeks and the French took the tradition of wine from Anatolia. When the Turks arrived and even after Islam, wine production continued. The Ottomans would occasionally crack down or prohibit wine sales; only to reverse themselves when the treasury felt the impact of the missing wine taxes. During these times of repression, vineyards were never pulled up. During the second half of the 19th century, when Europe's vines were being devastated by phylloxera, Turkish wine production reached an all-time high. Since 1928, the Turkish Republic has supported wine production as an integral part of the Turkish agriculture and economy. (see WinesOfTurkey.org). Though there is not a lot of it in America, Turkish wines have never been better. I first discovered this at The Balkans International Wine Conference in Sofia several years ago. There, I sampled many great bottles and met a new generation of excited, adventurous, entrepreneurial winemakers and vineyard owners.
When an oppressive power tears down the last park in a city or makes it impossible to simply enjoy a glass of wine, that can be the moment when people just say, "ENOUGH!" When people are sure now that the oppressor believes that his liberty to swing his fist continues well beyond the point that it strikes your nose. It's now illegal in Turkey to "advertise" wine or even have a bottle visible from the street. No one in Turkey knows if even just talking about wine is "advertising" under the law. It is illegal to teach about wine. It is illegal to have winery visits. The Turkish airline no longer serves wine, except on international flights to Istanbul. It is illegal to have wine-sponsored events and it's clear Prime Minister Erdogan's plan is to make it impossible for wine culture and wine production to survive in Turkey. While the government offers secular rationalizations for these policies, they are obviously based in the conservative Islamic beliefs of Mr. Erdogan and his supporters.
Turkey is a vibrant and (in many ways) modern country with vibrant minority groups and (in theory) a secular government, which seeks to become part of the E.U. What you see in Turkey is a bunch of good people who live in the 21st Century and would like to continue to live in the 21st Century. What they are protesting against is a fundamentalist government (and sizable portion of the population) that would force them back into an intolerant antiquity. And while I am a liberal thinker on many issues, I do not believe all cultures are equal. A culture that prohibits those within it who wish to enjoy a glass of wine from doing so is backwards in at least that regard and intolerant and simply wrong. There are good people in Turkey fighting for their rights in so many ways, not least among those is their right to be civilized modern people who live here with us in the 21st century.
What can we do? Well, when all you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail. So I bought some Turkish wine and I'm going to sell it to you! The best way to support a winery is to buy their wine. Below I have listed two very good wines from Turkey and a few basics about them.
Stage Left will feature a red and a white, both from the Vinkara winery, located in the Kalecik region of Ankara.
Narince 2012; Vinkara ($12 Quartino - $35 bottle in restaurant) ($14.95 package)
The white grape Narince (Nah-rin-djeh, rhymes with Ninja) is native to Anatolia. This bottling is simple and straight-forward, bright, crisp and clean, smelling of tree-fruits and not dominated by oak. There is a reserve bottling but I prefer this standard one. It's perfect for the sidewalk on a summer day, as an aperitif or with white fish.
Kalecik Karasi 'Reserve' 2010; Vinkara ($17 Quartino - $51 bottle in restaurant) ($25.50 package)
The indigenous red grape Kalecik Karasi (Kah-le-djic-car-ah-ser, rhymes with father) is the most celebrated at Vinkara and in the region. This bottling is entirely from the estate's vineyard's in Kalecik. It benefits from 14 months in French Oak barrels. It's wonderfully structured and complex. The oak is present but does not dominate. There is a touch of smoke on the nose. It's delightful
Come in and have a glass or a bottle or order a case and we'll get it in for you; or buy some Turkish wine from somebody else! Ask your local retailer or restaurant wherever you are...and tonight, whatever wine you drink, be very conscious of the fact that you can do so ... and take it for granted.
You know how we love to bring new wineries to you. We could not be more excited to bring you riesling and pinot noir from this wonderful small winery. It's a relatively new winery and it is quite small. It's basically a six-person operation.
Mark and I like Oregon pinot noir, but I will be honest and tell you that, historically, I often have trouble telling one from another. That's changing as people figure out what the different viticultural areas of Oregon can produce.
These guys are fantastic. They're producing in the Willamette Valley and also quite specifically in an inner appellation of Willamette, called Yamhill-Carlton. They only produce riesling and pinot noir, two of my favorite grapes and the two most soil-conductive grapes there are.
We'll be hosting a wine dinner on July 19 at 7 PM Please come. The wines are phenomenal and we've created a menu to match.
Lobster Lasagna Truffled Pasta & Burnt-Orange Béchamel Riesling “Coast Range Dry” 2012; Yamhill-Carlton, Willamette, Oregon
Tuna Seared with Sage & Rosemary Served on A Himalayan Salt Brick A Selection of Shubumi Farm Mushrooms Pinot Noir "Coast Range" 2011; Willamette Pinot Noir "Ribbon Ridge Estate" 2011; Yamhill-Carlton, Willamette, Oregon
Stuffed Lamb Loin Smoked Garlic and Mint Sausage, Truffled Creamed Corn Pinot Noir "Estates Reserve" 2011; Yamhill-Carlton, Willamette, Oregon
Peaches and Cream Chocolate Mint and Thai Basil Coffee
We say to the Bastille Day Pig: "OFF WITH HIS HEAD!"We say to our guests: "Let them eat cake (and pig and drink Grand Marnier)!"
Did you know that Mark Pascal's ancestors were granted an inheritable Papal dispensation from the requirement to abstain from meat on Fridays (now only a requirement for Catholics during Lent)? Supposedly, they were granted this indulgence because they were in charge of guarding the King of France.
Mark is always keen to point this out as he chomps down on cheeseburgers every Lenten Friday. I do always respond by inquiring after the fate of the French King. "Great job, Mark's Ancestors!"
This coming Sunday, July 14, Bastille Day, we will roast our pig with Grand Marnier! We're going to smother it with oranges, Grand Marnier and sweet spices, and then you know what we're going to do...OFF WITH HIS HEAD and in the box to roast!
At 5 PM, we'll remove a crispy skinned Cochon a l'Orange. We will toast the pig with a Red Blooded Frenchman Punch (red wine, Grand Marnier, spices). Marie Antoinette did not say, "Let them eat cake," but did say "Let them eat brioche!" She was a little misguided there, but we actually have brioche and it is YOU who will eat brioche along with your pig if you should spend your Bastille Day with us.
All afternoon, we'll be serving discounted Grand Marnier cocktails. There is nothing quite like a Grand Marnier Golden Margarita ($10) on the sidewalk. We'll also offer David Embury's Larchmont Cocktail (Grand Marnier, Rum, Lime and sparkling water) and of course, Red Blooded Frenchman.
It's my understanding that the fine folks at Grand Marnier have taken quite a fancy to our idea and are sending down a couple of lovely spokesmodels to help out. We don't normally go for that sort of thing, but considering the occasion, we said we would welcome them so long as they wore some sort of cool Grand Marnier uniform in honor of the day!
A bit of silliness? Yes indeed; but the food and wine that day will be anything but!
Highland Park distillery is based in Kirkwall, Orkney. It is the most northerly whisky distillery in Scotland, and widely considered one of the finest. The distillery was founded in 1798, presumably by Magnus Eunson. The name of this whisky does not refer to the area of Scotland known as The Highlands, from which Orkney is excluded, but rather to the fact that the distillery was founded on an area called 'High Park' distinguished from a lower area nearby. Highland Park is one of the few distilleries that still malts its own barley, using locally cut peat. The peat is mixed with heather before being used as fuel. That's about as traditional as it gets.
Last year Highland Park began a new special edition Valhalla series honoring the Norse mythology so entwined with the Orkney Islands. Last year’s release was Thor, a delightful 16 year, high-proof, terrifically complex whisky. This year’s Valhalla release is called "Loki" after Norse God known for trickery and mischief. It's a marvelous 15-year iteration.
Highland Park has indicated that as the Valhalla Collection progresses, less will be available of each release and the price will gradually increase. Thor came in at $199 and Loki ups the ante to $249. It is in short supply.
We will open one bottle of Loki at 6:30 precisely. When it's gone, it's gone.
Next Week in The Spirits Project: Dalmore King Alexander III (Six Cask Blend)
Mezcal is an oft-misunderstood class of spirits here in the U.S.
Like Tequila it is made from the Agave plant, though it does not have to come from within the Tequila appellation. In the minds of many American consumers, Mezcal is, by definition, not as high quality a spirit as Tequila. We beg to differ.
Perhaps the finest mezcals we've come across are from our friend Ron Cooper at Del Maguey. The quality and diversity of Ron's many small Mezcals will blow your mind. One particularly interesting type of Mezcal is called "Crema de Mezcal." It's got just a touch of sweetness to it and it's unlike any other agave based spirit. It features prominently in one of the new cocktails on our list.
The Brushfire: Mescal, Tequila, Crema de Mezcal, Honeydew Melon-Vinegar Syrup (Shrub), Grapefruit and Hibiscus Tea.
This cocktail embodies the things we love most about great Mezcal’s subtle, roasted smoky flavors. We combine it with earthy lowlands Tequila, the tangy sweetness of Honeydew Melon and Grapefruit then float a bit of tart Hibiscus tea on top for a striking contrast of color and flavor. Try it from the bottom for a bit of smoky sweetness, then from the top for a refreshing floral note. In the end you may decide to mix the two, spreading the fire in a whole new direction.
On Friday, at The Cocktail Bar at Catherine Lombardi, we will serve The Brushfire for just $8. We will pass light hors d'oeuvres from 6:30 - 9 PM. The most tasteful cocktail enthusiasts of The Garden State will be in attendance, as is their custom. We hope to see you there.
Bastille Day is Sunday, and we'll be cooking a pig on the sidewalk. Believe it or not, Mark is 1/4 French (and it's a good excuse to cook a pig and drink Grand Marnier Margaritas).
The Trisaetum wine dinner is a week from Friday 7/19. We are really excited to show these new Pinot Noir and Riesling to you.
Today, Mark is flying to California to visit with some old friends and taste new vintages with Paul Hobbs, George Hendry and The McCreas at Stony Hill. He'll also be sussing out some new producers who we will tell you about in the coming year.
Next week, I'm headed off to Tales of The Cocktail in New Orleans (the largest cocktail conference in the world), where I'll be presenting a seminar or two with some cocktailian colleagues and may find time for a recreational cocktail or two.
We are both flying back early just so we can present to you the very special Oregon Wines of Trisaetum. I so very sincerely hope you will join us. Mark and I just tested all the food with Chef today and it's great.
Exclusively to members of our email list; one per guest. Happy Independence Day!
The Springbank distillery produces three uniquely different Scotch single malts: Longrow, Hazelburn and Springbank. The difference is achieved by using Springbank's three stills in different combinations as well as adjusting the peat levels.
Longrow is the most traditional of the three: well-peated and distilled twice.
Hazelburn is bereft of peat and enjoys a triple distillation.
Springbank is lightly peated and, rather curiously, distilled two-and-a-half times.
Both Hazelburn and Longrow have been revived recently after a few years of silence and both are named for ancient distilleries adjacent to the site.
The buildings at the Springbank distillery are traditional and quite compact, though the facility boasts an onsite maltings which meets all of the malted barley requirements. The distillery sits in the center of Campbeltown, a decidedly misunderstood Scotch whisky region. The malts from Campbeltown tend to be rather dry and a little briny, though much loved by connoisseurs. The distillery has a small capacity; just 750,000 liters annually.
Springbank is an experimental distillery and there are many wood finishes used the three varieties of single malt. Any wine barrel is going to provide a softening note, but sherry barrels tend to leave a whisky fairly dry, while adding vanilla and toffee notes. We look forward to sampling this whisky on FRIDAY, the FIFTH of JULY! We will open one bottle at 6:30 precisely. When it's gone, it's gone.
Next Week in The Spirits Project: Highland Park Loki 15 Year Single Malt