Ferret is one of the most magical domaines in all of Burgundy and a very important wine. The appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé was once one of the most respected regions in Burgundy. It is the noblest of the Macon sub region. Before WWII, it was a tiny appellation surrounding just the villages of Fuissé and Pouilly. After the war, cash starved France needed money and Pouilly-Fuissé had great name recognition. The borders of the region were re-drawn to include vastly more acreage and not all of it great. Thus began the slide into mediocrity. The newly included winemakers, on less-than-stellar land made a product that was not quite as good but much cheaper. The old producers could not hold the line in quality because Pouilly-Fuissé no longer demanded a price that would allow the best practices. The decline in quality and reputation was precipitous...except Ferret.
Ferret was founded in 1840 and was kept in the family for 166 years. The Ferrets only bottled wines from their own vineyards (Les Perrieres, Tournant de Pouilly and Les Clos) located entirely within the old appellation and indeed within the village of Fuissé. These vineyard-specific wines are like nothing I've ever tasted. They have distinctive honey and beeswax notes, with an incredible richness on the palate. While Pouilly-Fuissé does not have a reputation for age-worthy wines, I've had Ferrets at 10 - 13 years that remain stunning. Mark and I pulled the last bottle of Colette's wine in our cellar (2003) and drank it with some friends in the cafe last summer.
We started buying Ferret wines from Jeanne Ferret in 1992. When she passed, we bought from her daughter Colette Ferret until her untimely death in 2006. (Side note: The Domaine Ferret has always been run by a woman since 1840.) There was no family to take over the property. The workers stayed on and worked for no pay for two years until Jadot acquired the property in 2008. That brings a tear to my eye. Jadot paid them upon acquiring the domaine.
When I heard that the estate had passed to a large company, my heart sank. I had heard early reports that the wines were coming out bland and unremarkable. Those reports were wrong. Jadot put Audrey Braccini in charge. He wanted a woman to be in charge and he wanted to keep Ferret - Ferret. Audrey grew up in nearby Beaujolais and was the perfect choice. I'm glad to report...no, I'm overjoyed to report that the wines remain solidly Ferret and as exceptional as ever.
Audrey Braccini will be here with her wines and the Triumphal Return of Ferret wines to our list on March 27. She will also be presenting some of the best wines EVER to come out of Beaujolais (very serious dry wines, not fruit bombs or simple Beaujolais), which are made by her husband, the equally talented Cyril Chirouze. I would go on, but the email is already too long.
Ferret Wine Dinner
March 27, 2017 - Monday ($99)
Tasting 6:30 Dinner 7
Tasting with Hors d’Oeuvres
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse 2015
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse Les Perriers 2012
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse Les Clos 2014
Chateau Des Jacques Morgon 2015
Chateau Des Jacques Moulin A Vent 2015
Chateau Des Jacques Morgon Cote du Py 2015
Brook Trout with Thyme and Lemon
Domaine J. A. Ferret
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse 2014
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse Les Perriers 2014
Loin and Sausage of Rabbit with Spaetzle
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse Les Clos 2012
Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse Les Menetrieres 2012
Slow cooked spice rubbed Iberico de Bellota Ribs with Quail
Chateau Des Jacques Morgan Cote du Py 2013
Chateau Des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent Clos de Rochegres 2013
Lemon Layer Cake with Lemon Curd
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